A. For a sampling of Venezuelan, Brazillian, Chilean, Colombian, Cuban and Argentinian cuisine, head over to the nuevo Latino hot spot Luz (177 Vanderbilt Ave., between Myrtle and Willoughby Aves.) in Fort Greene, Brooklyn. Pay no attention to the empty lot with the backhoe parked next door; the hip minimalist ambience inside offers hints of Buenos Aires circa 1990, and the first-rate food says pan-Latin 2006. We had no trouble getting a table at 7 p.m., but the place filled up quickly with a melange of black, brown and white faces as varied as the food.

As soon as we were seated, a plate of plantain chips with a tangy pepper tomato sauce was set before us. We started off by trying empanadas with fire-roasted tomato salad ($10) and bassabi ($12), a ceviche of lime-cured sea bass with wasabi, tomatillo and cantaloupe. Normally, the empanadas consist of one Spanish manchego-cheese version with spinach pastry alongside another stuffed with lobster and shrimp. Due to the recent spinach scare across the country, we got two lobster and shrimp empanadas - and we weren't complaining. The bassabi was satisfyingly spicy and righteously refreshing at the same time.

I found the sweet (but not too sweet) Luz Colada ($8) - a mixture of passionfruit, coconut milk and Brugal añejo rum - to be just the right cocktail to start off the meal, though my companion preferred the Manchingo ($8), a concoction of fresh oranges, limes, mango puree and gin. Antonio, the convivial barman, has a great reputation, and the bar fills up quickly with diners eager to discuss the history and ingredients of the establishment's drinks and dishes.

For the main course, with the help of our friendly server, Yasmid, I went with the Mar y Tierra ($25): South American surf-and-turf, consisting of beef tenderloin with melt-in-your-mouth mofongo (mashed plantains) and sun-dried tomato salad, and coconut barbecued Maine lobster with grilled pineapple and black-bean salad. My date went with the camarones criollos ($16), grilled shrimp served with sausage-tomato sauce and banana-black bean mash that has to be tried to be believed. The shrimp, sauce and mash are wrapped in thinly sliced, fried-and-dried plantains that look like tremendous sushi rolls.

Luz's selection of wines (by glass or by bottle) runs the gamut from Spain to Argentina, Baja to Chile. I had a glass of the Tottarelli "Reserva de Familia" Malbec from Argentina ($8) with my beef. Like the food portions, the wine servings aren't skimpy.

For dessert, we split the tembleque ($6), a coconut cream custard served with pineapple salad and strawberry sauce in a giant martini glass. We were so full and so satisfied that we passed on the Mexican sorpresa ($8) that Luz is known for: a spiced, warm chocolate cake with a chocolate pudding center served with warm honeyed bananas and pineapple-coconut ice cream.

The meal was a bit of a splurge, with the check coming to just under a C-note, though we were more than satisfied with the food, drink, service and ambience.

Jason Hernandez-Rosenblatt

LUZ. 177 Vanderbilt Ave., Fort Greene, Brooklyn; (718) 246-4000. Dinner: Sun.-Wed. 5:30-11 p.m.; Thur.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-midnight. Brunch: Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

Must haves:
Appetizer: Empanadas with fire-roasted tomato salad ($10), bassabi ($12)
Entree: Camarones criollos ($16), Mar y Tierra ($24)
Dessert: Tembleque ($6), sorpresa ($8)

Originally published on September 20, 2006