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TONY Issue 512: July 21–27,
2005 Just opened: Too new to
review
Light supper
Garages, even when they're converted, still look like garages. Not the
case at Luz, the newest addition to Vanderbilt Avenue in Clinton
Hill. The owners, Pedro Munoz and Vivian I. Torres, are Pratt architecture
grads, and they've successfully transformed the building into this sleek
Nuevo Latino venue. Chef Henry Lopez Jr. took cues from his mentors—his
mother, Carmen, and chef Douglas Rodriguez—to create the opening menu:
daikon radish cups filled with citrus crab salad; coconut tuna ceviche;
grilled beef tenderloin with yucca and red chimichurri sauce (pictured);
and grilled guava-glazed Gulf shrimp with coconut rice. All of it pairs
perfectly with the Luz Colada, a house cocktail made with passion fruit,
coconut milk and rum.—Alexis Barnes
177 Vanderbilt Ave between Myrtle and Willoughby Aves, Clinton
Hill, Brooklyn (718-246-4000).
On the mark
When Landmark Tavern
closed nearly a year ago, saloon aficionados were in disbelief. The
Eleventh Avenue bar had survived Prohibition, various wars, even the
advent of light beer. Lucky for everyone, new stewards—Michael
Younge, who runs Druids on Tenth Avenue, and Donnchadh O'Sullivan, a
County Cork transplant—have brought the place back to life, with the
help of Australian chef Bryce Cole. They're hoping Cole's
better-than-usual bar food will help locals overcome the distance:
seared halibut with thyme and hazelnuts (pictured), spiced lamb
shanks, steak and best of all, pub classics like shepherd's pie,
Scotch eggs and Irish soda bread. The new owners also gave the space
the TLC it needed, restoring original tin ceilings, stained glass
and beveled mirrors. Although the former owners lived upstairs,
Younge has decided to share that part instead. The second and third
floors, each of which still has an original fireplace, will be used
for private events.—Yishane Lee
626 Eleventh Ave at 46th St (212-247-2562).
Spaghetti western
Cesare Casella, chef-owner
of the Italian restaurant Beppe and author of Italian Cooking for
Dummies, will pay tribute to Italy's wild west this week when he
opens Maremma. You'll get your bearings as soon as you enter
the two-story restaurant: A hand-painted map of southwestern Tuscany
hangs on the wall, along with mounted bull horns. The menu follows
suit with Tuscan food that has what Casella calls a cowboy twist.
Sloppy Giuseppe is a take on the American sloppy joe—braised oxtail
and beans over a bed of polenta. Homemade SpaghettiOs get drunk on
whiskey in his moonshine pasta. Beef cheeks (pictured) come with
creamed-corn succotash and salsa verde. Beans, though, get top
billing at this ranch: Casella shows off the best of Tuscany's
heirloom varieties at his specialty bean bar.—Fabiana
Santana
228 W 10th St between Bleecker and Hudson Sts
(212-645-0200).
Soul mate
Brooklyn-born Chinese-American
chef Eric Kwan has degrees from the Culinary Institute of America
and the French Culinary Institute and has cooked at Gramercy Tavern
and DB Bistro. But his new restaurant is like none of the above.
Hip Hop Chow, scheduled to open by the end of the month, is
Kwan's take on Chinese and American soul food—and he has created two
distinct menus around the theme. Working on the premise that
Cantonese cuisine is China's soul food, he's stocked one side of the
menu with homey Chinese dishes like slow-cooked ribs in an
orange-honey-hoisin glaze—and another with American comfort food,
like grilled salmon (pictured), and Berkshire pork belly with cheese
stone-ground grits and maple-vanilla baked yams.—Frank
Leone
129 Second Ave between 7th St and St. Marks Pl
(212-674-2459).
New wave
After a much delayed opening (six
months), this sleek new eatery might have arrived just in time:
Summer is when our cravings for fresh seaside fare are at their
highest. Partners Allen Leung and Bobby Yee have opened Tides
in an intimate Lower East Side space and filled it with
custom-designed booths, chairs and tables made from different types
of bamboo. Chef Judy Seto, a four-year veteran of Mary's Fish Camp,
knows her seafood, but she's crafting dishes beyond the fish-fry
tradition: She pairs mussels with fennel and cream broth and serves
grilled shrimp with wild-mushroom–and–chestnut spaetzle. Whole
lobster, seared scallops and a lobster roll for every season are
available for purists.—Heather Tierney
102 Norfolk St at Delancey St (212-254-8855).
Bars & lounges
Believe Lounge
Artist–hairstylist–earth mother Chynna
Soul gutted a 2,500-square-foot space at her Gypsy Artist MUSEum and
added found objects (some from the trash) to the interior—a bar,
gallery and "mystical spiritual oasis."
1 E 36th St at Fifth
Ave (212-481-4955). Subway: B, D, F, V, N, Q, R, W to 34th St–Herald
Sq (W weekdays only). 5pm-4am. Average drink: $12.
Little Branch
Milk & Honey owner Sasha Petraske is
letting commoners into this candlelit, subterranean spot to sample
his legendary cocktails. No reservations required.
20–22
Seventh Ave South at Leroy St (212-929-4360. Subway: 1 to Houston
St. Average drink: $9.
Maya
You could order a margarita or a martini at this
sleek new lounge, but there's a world of Indian-themed food and
drinks as well.
14 E 33rd St between Fifth and Madison Aves
(212-685-6275). Subway: B, D, F, V, N, Q, R, W to 34th St–Herald Sq
(W weekdays only). Mon–Fri 4pm–2am; Sat, Sun 5pm–4am. Average drink:
$11.
NEW Sortie
Eric Macaire (the
Bubble Lounge, Jubilee) and DJ-sommelier Juan Coronado are serving
more than 30 artisanal beers and tapas at this indoor-outdoor
bar.
329 51st St between Eighth and Ninth Aves (212-265-0650).
Subway: C, E to 50th St. 5pm–4am. Average drink: $9.
Restaurants & cafés
Bette
Amy Sacco, the beauty and brains behind Bungalow
8 and Lot 61, has opened this stylish Chelsea eatery, with food by a
Jean-Georges protégé.
461 W 23rd St at Tenth Ave
(212-366-0404). Subway: C, E to 23rd St. Dinner (closed Sun).
Average main course: $25.
Bogotá Bistro
Farid Ali and George Constantinou are
serving dishes inspired by their travels through Latin
America.
141 Fifth Ave between Douglass and DeGraw Sts, Park
Slope, Brooklyn (718-230-3805). Subway: 2, 3 to Bergen St; M, R to
Union St (M weekdays only). Dinner. Average main course:
$13.
Bolzano's Bar Cucina
The team from Tao has unveiled
this mammoth Italian-American restaurant, serving classics like
spaghetti and meatballs and veal parmigiana.
1515 Broadway at
45th St (212-302-2250). Subway: N, Q, R, W, 42nd St S, 1, 2, 3, 7 to
42nd St–Times Sq. Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $17.
Brooklyn Fish Camp
The owners of Manhattan's beloved
Mary's Fish Camp have introduced this outpost in Park Slope, serving
a seasonal roster of whole fish, grilled or fried, and that famous,
perfect lobster roll.
162 Fifth Ave between DeGraw and
Douglass Sts, Park Slope, Brooklyn (718-783-3264). Subway: 2, 3 to
Bergen St. Lunch, dinner (closed Sun). Average main course:
$19.
NEW Centrico
Drew Nieporent
closed Layla after nine years and opened this Nuevo Mexicano
restaurant in its place. Chef Aaron Sanchez (Paladar) is in the
kitchen.
211 West Broadway at Franklin St (212-431-0700).
Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: 1 to Franklin St. Average main course:
$22.
NEW Diablo Royale
Chef Keith
Harry (of Chanterelle) prepares traditional Mexican fare, with an
emphasis on tacos—and, of course, margaritas.
189 W 10th St
between Bleecker and W 4th Sts (212-620-0223). Subway: 1 to
Christopher St–Sheridan Sq. Dinner. Average main course:
$16.
Elios
Park Slope's new Greek bistro, named for the sun,
is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. The
kitchen keeps things simple: lamb chops, chicken souvlaki, and
grilled octopus.
82 Sixth Ave at St. Marks Pl, Park Slope,
Brooklyn (718-783-0033). Subway: B, Q, 2, 3, 4, 5 to Atlantic Ave;
D, M, N, R to Pacific St (M weekdays only). Brunch (Sat, Sun),
lunch, dinner. Average main course: $17 (cash only).
Gravy
The owners of nearby Pacifico have cast this spot
as a 1930s-inspired diner, and chefs Joe Pounds and Dan Hall are
slinging comfort-food classics like a BLT with thick slices of
bacon, and vegetarian chili–cheese fries.
100–102 Smith St
between Atlantic Ave and Pacific St, Boerum Hill, Brooklyn (no
phone). Subway: F, G to Bergen St. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Average
main course: $7.
Havana Central
Pre-Castro Cuba was the inspiration for
the spacious interior, which incorporates a veranda café, bar,
dining room and mezzanine lounge. The menu is similar to that at its
sister eatery: authentic grub like ropa vieja.
151 W 46th St
between Sixth and Seventh Aves (212-398-7440). Subway: B, D, F, V to
47–50th Sts–Rockefeller Ctr. Lunch, dinner. Average main course:
$14.
NEW Little Bistro
Former
Jean Georges and Nobu chef Chris Cheung is serving down-home fare
like sweet-and-sour baby-back ribs.
158 Court St between Amity
and Pacific Sts, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (718-797-5778). Subway: F, G
to Bergen St. Dinner (closed Sun). Average main course: $15.
NEW Lodge
This new spot
looks just like a mountain lodge, right down to faux-antler
chandeliers. Chef Johnny Sullivan follows through with the theme,
riffing on classic country cooking in dishes like chicken and
dumplings with orange-lemon gremolata.
318 Grand St at
Havemeyer St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-486-9400). Subway: L to
Bedford Ave. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Average main course:
$9.
Mainland
Upper West Side restaurateur Tsu Wang
(Ollie's, Ouest, 'Cesca, Haku) and chef-partner Brian Young have
opened this modern Chinese spot on the other side of the
park.
1081 Third Ave at 64th St (212-888-6333). Subway: F to
Lexington Ave–63rd St; 6 to 68th St–Hunter College. Lunch (Mon–Fri),
dinner. Average main course: $24.
NEW Melba's
Melba Wilson, an
original partner in Virgil's Real Barbecue, is putting her own spin
on comfort food, like wine-braised short ribs (an old family recipe)
and a signature phyllo "soul roll" packed with collards, black-eyed
peas and yellow rice.
300 W 114th St at Frederick Douglass
Blvd (Eighth Ave) (212-864-7777). Subway: B, C to 116th St. Brunch
(Sat, Sun), dinner (closed Mon). Average main course: $13.
Miriam
The food at this upscale Middle Eastern newcomer
hails from all over the sun-drenched region—Morocco, Israel, Egypt,
Syria, Lebanon. The main attraction: Miriam's malabi, a
Middle Eastern custard.
79 Fifth Ave at Prospect Pl, Park
Slope, Brooklyn (718-622-2250). Subway: 2, 3 to Bergen St. Brunch
(Sat, Sun), dinner. Average main course: $13.
Perry St.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten downsized for his
latest eatery, a small, 60-seat restaurant in one of Richard Meier's
glass towers overlooking the Hudson. Gregory Brainin, previously
executive chef at Jean Georges, is serving simple, eclectic fare
such as arctic char with tomato juice, roast chicken with corn, and
black cod in black-olive oil.
176 Perry St at West St
(212-352-1900). Subway: A, C, E to 14th St; L to Eighth Ave. Lunch,
dinner.
RIB
You'll need a few napkins to get through dinner at
this Southern joint, set in the diner car that housed Lunchbox Food
Co. Three versions of the namesake dish are served.
357 West
St between Clarkson and Leroy Sts (212-336-9330). Subway: 1 to
Christopher St–Sheridan Sq. Brunch (Sun), lunch, dinner (Mon–Sat).
Average main course: $15.
Sant Ambroeus
This Upper East Side institution has
returned to its original location, along with chef Mario
Danieli.
1000 Madison Ave at 77th St (212-570-2211). Subway: 6
to 77th St. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Average main course:
$26.
Saravanaas
The chefs have finally arrived from India to
run the first NYC branch of this international vegetarian
chain.
81 Lexington Ave at 26th St (212-679-0204). Subway: 6
to 23rd St. Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $12.
Smokey's 11101
This new barbecue joint is on the lot
where the original Pearson's stood before it moved to Jackson
Heights.
5-16 51st Ave between 5th St and Vernon Blvd, Long
Island City, Queens (718-937-1111). Subway: 7 to Vernon Blvd–Jackson
Ave. Lunch, dinner. Average main course: $18.
Turquoise
The color scheme here is as the name
suggests—and the menu is all about seafood: fish hand-selected every
morning from the Fulton Fish Market.
240 E 81st St between
Second and Third Aves (212-988-8222). Subway: 6 to 77th St. Dinner.
Average main course: $25.
Vintage New York WineBar
The owners of two Vintage New
York stores have finally paired their bottles with food. At this
bi-level space overlooking the Soho shop, they're serving 200 local
wines and small plates.
482 Broome St at Wooster St
(212-226-9463). Subway: C, E to Spring St; N, R to Canal St. Dinner.
Average small plate: $8.
Waldy's Wood-Fired Pizza & Penne
At this 15-seat
take-out pizza joint, Beacon chef Waldy Malouf combines his love of
organic ingredients with his expertise at the wood-burning oven.
Matching wines are available in "good and "better."
800 Sixth
Ave between 27th and 28th Sts (212-213-5042). Subway: F, V to 23rd
St. Lunch, dinner. Average pie: $12.
Zakuro
Chef Toki Numasawa (Fujiyama Mama, Avenue A
Sushi) oversees an intriguing menu of French- and Italian-inflected
Japanese dishes, like tuna tartare with pomegranate sauce.
143
Second Ave at 9th St (212-505-5624). Subway: L to Second Ave; 6 to
Astor Pl. Dinner. Average main course: $18.
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